Helga

Helga

Monday, May 24, 2010

Day 22: Flying to Welly

Greetings all
I'm back in Welly - as Alan Sciscia said - having a holiday from having a holiday. I'll be here until 17 June for some work and a wedding in the Cook Islands. Then we will be back to tackle the Darwin to Perth leg via the Gibb River Road. I'll pick up the blog then.

In the meantime I have gone back through some of the earlier posts and inserted some photos (including one of Helga having a swim.) One of the frustrations of using internet cafes is that they generally don't allow you to connect up to USB ports. They also shoot your proofreading skills all to hell because you can see your time running out as you type!

Cheers all
Ken (In Welly) and Helga (in Darwin)

Saturday, May 22, 2010

Day 21: Chillin' out in Darwin

Greetings all,
Day 21 was a total contrast to all the others. We found ourselves staying in a pretty upmarket pub so thought we would make the most of it. One thing about casino hotels (!!) is how cheap their food and drinks are so we had buffet breakfast for $13 each and began to plan our delivery of the bikes to BMW and our packing for the holiday from the holiday (thanks Alan!)

We arranged to check out at 12 noon so spent the morning sorting and packing gear - some to come home, some to be biffed and some to be packed on the bikes to await our return. The nice conceirge lady let me use the hotel's carwash area to clean the red dirt off the bikes - even gave me a bucket and some carwash - so we gave both bikes a good clean up. When I say "we" I actually mean "me" because Dick was busy doing business stuff on the computer. It was so humid that I confess neither bike got a great clean and I had to go back to the (air-con!) room to change. At about 12.30pm we finally checked out leaving some gear behind in the hotel storage and cruised off towards BMW down the Stuart Highway and straight into the daily noon-time thunderstorm. Let's just be polite and say it was jolly heavy, jolly wet and jolly wetting rain.

The sales manager at BMW was a nice bloke and gave us a courtesy car ride back to the hotel where we hunkered down and waited out the time for the plane due to leave Darwin for Sydney at 1.45 am. Fortunately we were at a casino so Dick and I bravely took $2 each into the pokies room and gambled. I can see why this activity is so dangerous as it actually took an amazingly long time to lose the whole $2. You would almost get down to zero and then have another little win which you would gamble away. Creepy stuff and so many people grimly pushing buttons and looking dejected.

So after another cheap dinner and more free internet time we decided to taxi out to the airport and enjoy the delights of Darwin Airport. Which would have been great except there weren't any. On the insecure side of Darwin Airport there is almost nothing. Finally we got through check in and into the departure lounge ready for the flight to Sydney at 1.45am and hopefully some sleep on the way. The checkin lady was a nice person from Whangarei who was so impressed by Teddy Boy that she said she would try and arrange for us to have a three seat row each to ourselves so we could stretch out and have a sleep. And that will wait for Day 22!

I am going to upload some photos so you might like to have a browse through some earlier posts.
Cheers,
Ken (in Welly) and Helga (in Darwin)

Friday, May 21, 2010

Day 20: Looking for crocs on the Alligator River

Greetings all
Well we were a mess as we crawled out of bed on Thursday morning. I managed a few hours sleep - others managed more. Sorry - I know it's cold and wet in Welly but the heat and humidity here is something fierce.

I was up before 6am and showered and we set about breaking camp and packing our gear, knowing that things would be packed and not unpacked for some weeks as we fly home. We got organised quite well but then Garth decided to fire up his white-spirit stove for the first time in a while so he could make coffee. Unfortunately the o-ring on the spirit bottle was past its use by date and leaked petrol out onto the dry grass where it promptly caught fire. Dick, Edgar and Garth did great imitations of cooroberee as they stomped the flames out while I cried exclamations of encouragement and moved Helga well out of the way. All finished ok and Garth decided at that point that perhaps coffee could come later.

D & I had booked into a rivercruise on the Alligator River some 40kms on towards Darwin and up a side road so we were on the road by 7.30. We arrived at the boat launching area and waited for some time before being joined by some other tourists and the guide - a young(ish) aboriginal woman called Tess who drove the boat and delivered the commentary.





It was at this stage that we learned that seeing a croc on that day was rather unlikely. However it was a pleasant cruise up the river with a stop off along the way and some great escarpments. I'll post photos when i get home and can get organised.






Back on shore at 11am and we set off to Darwin. I was really conscious of my little sleep on the road earlier so I was taking care, especially as we had had no breakfast - I am travelling with Mr Muesli I'll have you know. So the first chance we got we stopped and had a Mrs Mac's for breakfast. Mmmmm. Still very hot and humid so lots to drink as well.

We then went on the 200kms or so into Darwin to the BMW dealers to check on the arrangements for servicing. While we were there Edgar and Garth turned up yet again. So many final farewells!!!

Things were mostly ok with the BMW arrangements but there was some difficulty I really didn't understand the problem about fitting new tyres to Helga so I ended up going back up the highway some kilometres to a shop called NT Motorcycles and talking to them about suitable tyres - I need something that will allow me to pucker less in the sand but can still handle well on the tar seal. Unfortunately they could not fit them then, or the next day, so I reserved a set of tyres and will have to leave it to BMW to do the fitting. Hope it works!

In the meantime Dick, Edgar and Garth had gone on into Darwin to organise some accommodation. We thought that would be easy but oh no!!! Too many conferences in town. In the end Edgar and Garth took off to find accommodation back on the road to Katherine and Dick and I took a big breath and booked into the Sky City Casino. Expensive but we were glad that we did because the food and drink was sooooo cheap and the service was fantastic. And the air con ...... ahhhhh the air con was blisssss zzzzzzzzz.
:-)

Thursday, May 20, 2010

Day 19: Both wheels off the ground at 240kph!!

Greetings all.
Today we decided to head up to the Kakadu National Park and have a looksee - sort of as a longer way to get to Darwin. We moseyed up the Stuart Highway to Pine Creek where we stopped for breakfast. Lovely poached eggs with extra sour from the waitress thrown in for free. Edgar and Garth turned up too not long after so the Elvis-look-alike cafe was filled with rowdy Kiwi bikers. It didn't seem the cheer the waitress up one little bit. I am sure I don't know why.

We then turned off up the Kakadu Highway and out into the national park. I'm not sure quite what I expected but all we really got was much more of what we had already had. Lots of straightish roads with boring scrub down the sides - no rain forest at all. We stopped off at a few tourist traps on the way before arriving at Jobiru (or Jabiru depending n whose signpost you were reading.) We scored a salad sandwich and then went looking for accommodation. And it was hot. 35 degrees and humid. I was gasping like a poor wee frog and even Teddy Boy was complaining.

We wound up in the Kakadu Lodge campgrounds and had to put up our tents. The ground was like concrete and I ended up bashing in the pegs with a rock. bash and drip. Bash and drip ... you get the picture.

Dick decided he wanted to have a scenic flight over the park so called up the local scenic flight company and using all that muesli experience talked them into offering two half-price flights which included senior discounts. The plane was a GA8 Aerovan made in Australia. Hence the title. It went to one end of the runway and thundered down to take off and at 240kph got both wheels off the ground. (Had you going there huh? No? Bugger.)

Great flight over the park with some better idea of what it is really like - especially the water falls and the escarpments. Tried to take some photos but without much success. Got home just as the campsite was hit by a rainstorm and had to scurry around getting my washing off the line!

Got back to the tentsite and found that Edgar & Garth had also turned up and (having checked the prices at the local resort) had put up their tents near where I had the flag flying. We had a meal together by the pool and then went to our respective tents to try and sleep. An impossible task. It was so hot.

It was not much fun. The temperature was well into the mid-30s, very humid and no breeze. At all. We had to keep our tents closed because of the mossies so not much fun was had by anyone - except the dingoes which were conducted their annual howling at the moon competitions.

Thats it :-)

Tuesday, May 18, 2010

Day 18: Quite a lot of not very much at all.

Yes I am afraid we were up early again today and had quite some distance done before we considered stopping for breakfast. It was interesting to see how boring it was. Very flat, very monotonous and dead straight roads. We decided to settle at 120kph and found that much more comfortable and were not often overtaken. I set the gps for Katherine and it said "Continue on the Stuart Highway for 560 kilometres then turn right into Giles Sreet.



After about 200ks we stopped for breakfast at Bareeba. Another great set of poached eggs and yet another young European woman serving at the counter (as in a young woman from Europe!) we carried on to the north. It had been dripping on us just a little - just enough to keep the road wet but gradually it eased and the temperature came up from 19 degrees C to 25.

I didn't realise quite how relaxed the breakfast had made me till I suddenly realised I was doing 130kph on the wrong side of the road and heading for the scrub. I had completely nodded off - the first time i can ever remember doing that in all my time of riding motorbikes. Thank goodness for brown underpants. After giving myself a stern talking to, we carried on and arrived in Katherine at about 2.30. A quick hunt around for a cheap motel and here we are. Went up to Repco and bought a new headlight bulb for Helga and fitted it so we now have all the lights working properly - even if the airhorn still only makes a miserable croaking fart.

Going off to sort our airfares now. Cheers all.
Ken and Helga

Day 17: Barrelling up the Barkley

Greetings all,
A quiet and peaceful night at Carmooweal and then up and away again at 7am. Not far west of town we hit the Queensland/NT border and a big sign saying "Welcome to Queensland. Please advance your minds by 15 years and your watches by 30 minutes." A bit unkind I thought.

Just past the border we passed the first 130kph speed limit sign. Well, having never been allowed to ride at 130k and be legal (except at Manfield) who could resist. And do you know what? Riding at 130k is just as boring as riding at 100k when the roads are straight straight straight!





We had a super breakfast at the Barkley Homestead and then carried on into Tennant Creek where we had lunch and met up with a whole lot of other bikers; some doing the long ride to Darwin (for prostate cancer), somer Ulyssians returning home from a rally at the Top End and a group of staunch off-road riders who had come across from NSW to Alice. They had all the gears but goodness me!!!Their bikes were sooooo clean. Thanks for those who want to see a photo of filthy Helga but the problem is that most internet cafes will not allow you to connect up to USB ports. Tennant Creek was rather sad with lots of Aboriginal men, women and children just sitting around not doing much. I'm not sure whther this was typical or whether it was benefit day but it was very depressing.

From Tennant Creek we turned North again and into the rain. It looked very black and threatening to the north so we stopped at Renner Springs for the night. A rather expensive ensuite box but a great meal cooked by a mad kiwi chef and a nice glass of red and all was good. The chef's story was that they imported powdered fish from Tibet (apparently caught in the great lakes of Ooom?), sent to Australia and then mixed with water and put in fish-shaped moulds to set before being served as imported fish to the tourists. Dick was identified and invited to sign the wall which he did, adding the exhortation "Always have a great breakfast!!"

The rain really settled in so so did we.
:-)
Ken

Monday, May 17, 2010

Day 16: Slogging it to Carmooweel (sp?)

Up early and away in the morning - well as best we could because the petrol station didn't open until 9am. Once we had gas we headed off towards Gregory Downs. I had thought this was 119 of seal but oh no! 119 kms of sand and gravel. From Gregory Downs it was another 185kms of gravel to the turn off to Mt Isa which took us on a sealed road to Camooweel. I struggled a lot with this gravel as the tyres on Helga are not really very good in sand. She tends to dig in and swerve making me more than a little anxious. And the sand comes in patches just when you don't expect it. Dick has chunkier tread on Olga (and longer legs) and was much more comfortable. We arrived in C at about 4.30 and gassed up (ouch - $1.79 per litre) and found a room at the pub. We were ready for a few beers by now and had a good meal and in bed early again.




The aussies have an interesting concept of distance. I saw a sign today which said "Stop. Revive. Survive. Rest area 67 kms. On left."

Off on the Berkly Highway tomorrow for Day 17. Happy birthday for tomorrow Shirl. Anyone reading this should send Shirley a happy birthday message!!! :-)

Day 15: Through to Burketown

Up very early again and on the road before 7 heading for Normanton. Lots and lots of wallabies on the edges of the road so we were in slow and high-alert mode. Arrived in Normaton for breakfast and then set off to find the gravel road to Burketown. Found the road ok and a sign saying "Road closed. Water over road in 37kms." OK we thought - lets go and have a look at this water and see how bad it is. Just up the road another road closed sign; this time right across the road. Obviously tho lots of cars had driven round it so we did the same. The road was back to loose gravel and clay but not too bad and when we came across the water over the road it was all of ankle deep. So on we went. (Note the two fishermen!!)


Then the road got really gnarly. Not too much sand thank goodness but lots of loose crap and some very challenging dry water crossings with huge ruts and sandy banks to climb. Dick claims to have pushed Helga up the bank but I think he was only puffing because he's unfit.


We were in real high spirits when we reached the end of the road and the "Road Closed" sign at the other end. We were also hot, smelly and knackered. We went to the campground and put up the tents and then headed for the pub. A very gentle night was enjoyed with the locals giving us a hard time but all good fun. Once again in bed early for an early start.

Day 14: Carry On to Croydon

Hi all,
We struck our first crappy accommodation in all our trip so far at the Palmer River Roadhouse. We were housed in "dongas" which are like a canvas tunnel house. Our one was pretty crappy with a zip-up door that didn't and scruffy tatty mattresses. (which were actually quite comfortable. Apparently they call them dongas cos when you step up on the porch you donga your head on the cross beam. First I donga my head and took a nasty chunk out of the scalp. Then I donga my head again which led Dick to make some very unkind non-PC comments about slow learners and learning from ones' mistakes. Then he donga his head so that was all ok [Thanks Mum - actually I can manage these things on my own now.]

Anyway a surprisingly good dinner of fish and chips and salad and a nice port on the donga porch and we were in bed by 9pm!!






Up before 6 the next morning and headed to Georgetown. Nothing much there so when we arrived at 2.30pm we decided to carry on to Croydon. Found a lovely pub with a kiwi couple from Chch (who recognised Dick but not me) and into another donga - a really nice one this time. Also met up with Garth and Edgar - Kiwis who are doing the lap on BMW R1150RTs. A father and son combination. Garth is a pediatrican from Nelson and Edgar (73yo) is the publican at Chertsy in Canterbury. We had a very pleasant kiwi evening with another nice meal and a great swim before dinner.

All good.

Thursday, May 13, 2010

Day 13: Growing Ginger in the capricorn

Greetings all.
Day 13 and tonight we are in the Palmer River Roadhouse. A good gentlre day yesterday. Once Dick got back from his mining tour we mozzied south to Archer River Roadhouse and dragged out the tents again. What a lovely spot. We camped out under the trees and went up to the roadhouse for a beer and a meal and some amazing conversations with some whacky Australians. The road from Weipa to Archer River is great so we were pretty relaxed and ready for the battle today.

Up at 530 this am and on the road by 645. Good road down to Coen for a Mrs Mac's breakfast and then back into the crap. Olga and Helga do NOT LIKE playing in the sandpit. We both had moments today as we dropped front wheels into sand drifts and did huge wobbles all over the road. Puckering moments!!! Hard work all the way down to Lakeland where we hit the seal after 9 1/2 hours on the road and cruised on down to Palmer River where we have taken a "tented accommodation" which is essentially living in a nylon tunnel house. Cheap enough so it will do.

Now for the growing ginger. Those of you who have known me for a while will know that my beard has not always been grey - today it is back to ginger. The red dust has settled into the sunscreen and dyed my beard quite an original shade of ginger. No doubt it will wash out eventually.

Tomorrow we plan to stick to the tar and get around to Georgetown. Then Normanton and a hard think about whether we can hit the gravel again or come back down to the Mt Isa Road. Our time is a bit constrained now if we plan to fly out of Darwin back to NZ before the 22nd of May.

Cheers all.

Wednesday, May 12, 2010

Day 12: Wilting in Weipa

Bugger
Typed a whol;e lot and it disappeared and now i'm out of time.
Not going to the top. Back to Archer River today.

Tuesday, May 11, 2010

Day 11: The Grand Old Cape of York

Well here we are ... Day 11 and in Weipa on the west side of the York Peninsula. We left Cooktown yesterday after a gentle night (in bed by 8.30!!) and headed off to Lakeland and Laura. No dramas except for a roo which darted across in front of me from right to left. Fortunately i was riding at about 90km and just missed.

After Laura the gravel and ruts began. My god we think we have ruts!! These were huge. A good bit of road and then some some whoopdy-doos and hello bang crash ... my rh pannier box came of and went rolling down the road. I still don't quite know why but think that I must have not latched up the side clip - the one that stops the bags from flapping like wings. A few battle scars but at least the box didn't burst open. A hard ride then through to Coen where we stopped for the night in an (expensive) guesthouse.

Off early again this morning planning to go to Bramwell Junction. On advice of quarantine officers changed our minds and went to Weipa instead. I struggled a lot with the sandy patches in the road - Helga seemed to wander everywhere. Dick has more aggressive tyres and didn't seem to be having as much trouble (or perhaps is just the better rider) Stopped for breakfast at the Archer River Roadhouse and talked some more about roads. The biggest problem for us on the road to the tip (of Cape York that is) is that it is closed. You can get a special permit but we also heard that there were long deep patches of sand.

So we headed then for Weipa - great road here. Still gravel and dirt but easily sat on 80-90kph in 5th or 6th. A great ride into Weipa at about 2pm and into the caravan park. We have set up our tents down by the beach - NZ flag is flying but omg it's hot - up to 35.5 degrees C today.


Today Helga saw her first snake. And nearly ran over it. No crocs yet but we're hopeful.
Cheers
Ken and Helga

Sunday, May 9, 2010

Ken and Helga go for a swim

Greetings all.
Well we woke this morning to the rain pouring down - we are in rainforest country anyway so that was to be expected.

The task today was today was to drive the 160kms or so from Port Douglas to Cooktown via Cape Tribulation. Needed to go on a ferry to get to the cape and then it was 4wd only country from there on for 35kms. Well 1wd sounds pretty much like 4wd and we had thought this would be a good test for the York Peninsula so we gave it a go.

Lets just say the rain didn't help. The clay road was pretty greasy and not a nice sensation to feel the rear wheel trying to overtake the front wheel. We had been warned that the first crossing would be tough as the creek base was made up of big stones. When we got there we climbed out and looked at the options. The smallest gravel line looked good but I was worried that it was too close to the weir so went for the line that was further from the weir but had bigger stones.

The creek was about 25 metres across so it was a bit of a challenge. Quite shallow though. About knee deep on me and about ankle deep on Dick. So I went first, got about 2/3 of the way across and hit a big stone that turned under the front wheel. We wobbled right, we wobbled left, we wobbled right again and then fell in. I went right under water, Helga was lying on her side with the water flowing right over the tank. Bugger!! Hit the kill switch as quickly as I could and then started stripping the bike. Tank bag, top box, left and right panniers and the rearseat pack dragged through the water and onto the far bank.





Then a voice ... "You guys want some help?" Ummmmm .... yes please. A family - husband wife (a primary teacher) and two kids had arrived and helped Dick and I get Helga upright and then dragged here heave after heave to the far bank. I tried a couple of times to get her started but huge squirts of water came out of the muffler. On the far bank, I left her to drain for a while and then hit the starter again. And again. Ummm and again and up she fired.

Rode on up the bank and then went back to help Dick - if he needed it. Dick took the line with the finer gravel close to the weir and while he had a few wobbles powered through beautifully and up onto the other side. Bugger and I was ready with the camera too!!! :-)

You would think everything else would be an anti-climax after that but .... oh no! Coming down Donovans Range was pure greasy clay and a really steep descent. We both went on tippy-toes and got down ok paddling the bike. Away we went - around the next corner and another crossing. This one with smaller stones but wide, thigh deep and a little swift. Yeah right.

No heroics this time - we both walked the bikes across sitting on the seat and paddling with the legs, keeping the revs up and inching our way across. All good!! Whew!!!

After that just a long gravel greasy ride in intermittent deluges of rain and into Cookstown. We are staying here tonight and drying out a bit. My topbox and RH Pannier are fine but everything in my LH pannier is soaked. Fortunately I had put my camera, phone and GPS in the topbox before going swimming so they are all good. I now need to do a major repack to put all my heavy tools and fluids and stuff which I have been carrying in the topbox, down a bit lower in the pannier bags.

Some tricky moments but now - two beers later - it all seems good. What a shame that the photo I took of the crocodile stalking Dick didn't come out.......

Saturday, May 8, 2010

Photos.....?

Day One - leaving Liverpool St

Camping under the camping prohibited sign....
Whoops .....







Friday, May 7, 2010

Day 7 - what a blast!!!!

Today we were up early at 7am and on the road out of Ingham. We had a good breakfast up the road at Cardwell and then headed up towards Cairns. At Gordonvale we turned left and went up the highway to Atherton. What a road. Rimutakas times four. A series of switchbacks through the escarpment climbing for metres onto the Atherton Tablelands. A Harley had us on at the beginning of the switchbacks but that was just a joke.

Nice lunch at Karunda and then back down the next set of esses (that's what they call them!!) to Port Douglas. Found a motel with a kiwi owner - just three months in Port Doug from Timaru. The husband was a technology teacher (Year 7&8) and they have come to PD for a bit of a change and a better climate.

Dick and i have just had a cone of prawns and a beer for $11 sitting on the jetty at PD. Now heading off to the Yacht Club for dinner.

Some highlights .... when two lanes become one here there are two signs ... "merge" and then "form one lane" Some clever clog has been out and added a "p" at the front and a "t" at the end of "lane" so it reads: "Merge ... form one planet." What a vandal.

Beware of cassowary signs!!!

Temperatures of 32 dropping to 21as you climb the escarpment and then back again as you do the same.

The computer at the motel can deal with photos so hopefully I can post some photos tomorrow.

Cheers everyone - send Shirl a nice message!!!!

Thursday, May 6, 2010

Day 6 and it's really hot

Hi all
The temperature today hit 34. Now that's warm. We packed up our tents at Bocasia and were on the road by 7am. We had another good night at the local bowling club with a beer or three so we were ready to get going.

Up to Mackay and then north on the Bruce Highway towards Townsville. Stopped somewhere for a big brekkie and then on to Townsville. Coming out of Townsville, Dick went one way and I went the other. Bugger. I had fluked it onto the right road so at the first shady opportunity I stopped and flew the NZ flag on a lamp post while I waited for Dick. We met up after a wee while (well I wee'ed anyway) and then onto to (think chickens) Ingham. We have booked into the Royal Hotel - a faded lady now relegated to backpackers and gamblers. But clean and comfortable and most of all - cheap!!!

We seem to be in Harley country up here. I have gradually become more and more assertive with my waving and getting a few wave-backs. The score today was 6/11!!! The amazing thing we saw to day was a "Beware of kangaroos" sign that ONLY HAD ONE bullet hole in it. Incredible.

A bit disappointing that Internet cafes don't always allow USB and cameras to be attached. And now i have found one that does ... I have left the camera back at the backpackers. Bugger. I wanted to put up our first photo of me wearing my red icebreaker and blue scarf with Helga and waiting for the call from Ruth. Next time perhaps. I am wearing my icebreaker all day everyday. At night I have been rinsing it out and hanging it out to drip and then putting it on damp in the morning. Lovely!! Also found that the tenting worked out ok. In typical Oz fashion they charged us $26 to put up a tent and then put us right next to a "Camping Prohibited" sign from the local council. Funny chaps these Aussies.


That's about it. We are on a roll, having a ball and covering huge distances each day.

Cheers to all.

Wednesday, May 5, 2010

Day 5 and its hot!!!!

Hi everybody.
It's Day 5 and we are finding that internet cafes are not as easy to find as we thought they might be. Nor is it easy to upload photos so I am afraid they will have to wait.

We have been on a steep learning curve so far. Just the highlights.
- Ruth set us off from 4 Liverpool Street with a well rehersed "Gentleman, start your engines.

- we were too ambitious with our daily travel. The onramp to the Harbour Bridge in Sydney was blocked off and we ended up travelling all over Sydney to get out!! THen we ran out of puff at Kempsey and paid $90 for a motel room. Went to the RSL for dinner which was good.

- On the next day we thought we would push on through to Mooloolooba (sp?) but there was no accommodation then under $160 so we pushed even further on to Burundi.

As we left back on the motorway Dick's gps decided to commit hurry curry by falling off at 90kmh. Flossie - RIP. Then Dick realised he had left his camera in the motel at Buderim so went back to get it while I pushed on to Gladstone. We are now in Mackay staying in our tents on the beach at Bocasia. Having a rest day today and trying to find a replacement gps.

That will probably do for now. The bikes are running well despite the very very very straight roads and the temperature at 30degrees.

Running out of time... cheers.